Skirt cloth with fenced sequins ( tapis kaca bekandang)
early 20th century
This tapis skirt is composed of two sections joined together horizontally at the centre of the textile. The cloth has red, ochre, indigo blue, brown, and burnt orange warp threads and blue weft threads. The colours are visible because the textile is warp-faced, meaning that the warp threads dominate. The decoration consists of red silk threads, gold-wrapped threads, and felt that have been attached to the cloth with couching ('cucuk') stitches. There are also sequins attached with French knots – a form of embroidery, and gold-wrapped threadwork and threads wrapped with gold wire arranged in patterns on paper-card bases. The upper part of the skirt has less decoration to make it easier to wrap around the waist when worn. The stripes and star patterns are standard for this type of tapis. Similar pieces come from people following the Pepadon tradition, one of the two main social groups, in central and north Lampung.
Asian Art Department, AGNSW, 2011
GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT TAPIS
Tapis are elaborate skirts made in Lampung province, Sumatra, Indonesia. Women wore them with matching jackets during special events and ceremonies. Tapis were high-status ceremonial textiles that indicated the social rank of the wearer and her family. People also gave these skirts away as prestige gifts to indicate a family’s wealth and social standing. Tapis therefore were associated with power, status, and wealth. The more elaborate the skirt and those with the most gold-wrapped threads denoted the highest rank. Widows’ skirts, however, had limited decoration.
There are many social groups in Lampung, and these are called 'marga'. Each has specific conventions for clothing. These social regions are also divided between two traditions of social rules ('adat') – the Saibatin and Pepadon groups. The Saibatin have hereditary chiefs, while the Pepadon groups choose their chiefs based on achievements. Colours and the organisation of the stripes of the foundation cloth relate to the many clan groups in Lampung. For example, the Semangka from the southwestern coast employed bright red and yellow colours, and covered the dark, indigo blue sections of the fabric with secondary decorations. The Kauer people used darker colours with narrow red and yellow stripes and numerous mirrors. Among the Lampung groups, only the Kauer wore a short jacket with the skirts. Of course, the regular social and business exchanges between people in Lampung means that many of the skirts incorporate ideas beyond the 'marga' in which it was woven.
The tapis skirts in the AGNSW collection have base fabrics woven in warp-faced plain weave where the warp (threads tied to the loom) and weft (threads interlaced with the warps during weaving to create the cloth) intertwine alternately. Warp-faced means that there are more warp threads than weft ones, so the weft threads are hidden from view.
Traditional colours on tapis cloths include dark red, browns, indigo blue, dark green, ochre-yellow, and cream. The main decorative materials comprise horizontal, coloured stripes, gold- and silver wrapped threads, beads, pieces of felt and woven wool, and coloured yarns. The metal-wrapped threads, felt, wool, and coloured threads are couched (attached with stitches; 'cucuk') onto the surface of the cloth. The metal-wrapped threads are fastened to the fabric with threads sewn in a pattern, a decorative technique called 'sasab'. Sometimes the gold-wrapped threads were attached to paper-card before being couched onto the fabric. In addition to couching decorative materials to the cloth, the weavers also used brightly coloured yarns to embroider patterns onto the skirts. 'Cermuk' (pronounced chermuk) was the application of mirrors and mica to the tapis cloth. Since tapis are elaborate productions, making one could take up to a year.
early 20th century
silk and cotton or bast fibres, gold-wrapped threads, gold wire, sequins, paper-card, felt, natural dyes, warp-faced plain weave, couching, French knots
120.7 x 59.8 cm
Gift of Dr John Yu and Dr George Soutter 2006
Not on display